Aww this was such a nice read!! I learned how to surf for the first time in my life last year at age 25 in Morocco! Great place to learn, very beginner friendly and lots of newbies to feel connected with. Surfing humbled the heck out of me. I was in Morocco for 6 weeks and I thought by the end of it I’d be a star surfer. NOPE. I still sucked. It was prob the hardest hobby/activity I’ve learned in my adult life, and left me angry crying and bitter so so many times. But it’s also soooo rewarding and a deeply meditative experience with nature and the quiet moments with yourself while waiting for a wave.
Love how it’s impacted your life in so many positive ways even outside the water!! The reward of sucking at something, but continuing despite.
Great writing. I can relate to that feeling of not wanting to suck at something when you start out, that anxiety of looking terrible, a "newbie" and feeling like your being judged. Good to see though the other side of getting through that has brought a more vibrant life to you.
Hey David, thanks so much for the comment, I'm glad the post resonated with you!
I think in life, when we persevere and wait for the fruits to bear, its always worth it. Plus any time in the water is better than a day at home right 😁
Loved reading this and what I got from it is truly you are never too old to start something new. I met many people who started some of their favorite hobbies later on in life and even made careers out of them. Thank you for sharing your story!
Three weeks away from turning 30 and I so deeply understand the feeling of frustration over not living the life I want. I'm not sure what my thing is, but I love the idea that it can be anything I just decide to start whether it's something I've wanted to try for years or just found out about. It's just making the decision that's important.
Really really loved this! I’m in my late 20’s and surfing has been a dream for me, too. Unfortunately, I’m landlocked in Montana. What tips do you have for me?
Wow wow wow! I just celebrated my 30th in Costa Rica and caught waves for the first time. It is so addicting--that flow state of simply being on the water, and of course, the feeling of catching a wave. I think the world would be a much better place if we were all able to play outdoors and feel a part of nature in that play state. This resonated so much, thank you for sharing!
Lovely read! I always been drawn to surfing but perhaps this is the year I finally do it. Do you have any recommendations for beginner surf lessons? Portugal? Morocco?
That's inspiring! It isn't easy to learn something as an adult. Kudos for you for not giving up! I can relate with your story. I also felt the sense of unease in my 20's and I wondered what I was doing. Now, a few years into my 30's I feel like I am prioritizing on things that I want to do.
I loved loved loved reading this! Such a beautiful reflection, and I can relate - I have the same with trail running. Only discovered it when I turned 32, but wow, it has changed me for good (even though I also sometimes wonder what the heck I am doing when I have to run through the freezing cold :p). Thanks for sharing!
Great article. I started surfing this year. I have a lot to learn, but am enjoying the process.
Thank you! Definitely keep it up because some of the best days are ahead
Aww this was such a nice read!! I learned how to surf for the first time in my life last year at age 25 in Morocco! Great place to learn, very beginner friendly and lots of newbies to feel connected with. Surfing humbled the heck out of me. I was in Morocco for 6 weeks and I thought by the end of it I’d be a star surfer. NOPE. I still sucked. It was prob the hardest hobby/activity I’ve learned in my adult life, and left me angry crying and bitter so so many times. But it’s also soooo rewarding and a deeply meditative experience with nature and the quiet moments with yourself while waiting for a wave.
Love how it’s impacted your life in so many positive ways even outside the water!! The reward of sucking at something, but continuing despite.
Aw thanks Abby, that's super kind. Yeah, I love Morocco for surfing, it's like a second home for me now and the people and food are so lovely.
Thanks for the support, that means alot 🙏
Great advice. Everyone has to start somewhere. Surfing is the best! That’s a sick little wave pool, too. I wish more of them existed.
Thank you! 🙏 Yeah, I feel super blessed to have it so close but nothing beats time in the ocean, that's for sure!
Great writing. I can relate to that feeling of not wanting to suck at something when you start out, that anxiety of looking terrible, a "newbie" and feeling like your being judged. Good to see though the other side of getting through that has brought a more vibrant life to you.
Cheers.
Hey David, thanks so much for the comment, I'm glad the post resonated with you!
I think in life, when we persevere and wait for the fruits to bear, its always worth it. Plus any time in the water is better than a day at home right 😁
It's so crazy that I was wondering all day about joining a horse riding workshop.
I saw the post online, and it's in my city.
After reading your essay, the answer became much clearer.
Thank you for writing this. It really brought things into perspective.
It was really impactful.
I'm so stoked for you! 🙏
I just started surfing at 27. Humbling experience for sure.
Beautiful writing and photos. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words David 🙏
Loved reading this and what I got from it is truly you are never too old to start something new. I met many people who started some of their favorite hobbies later on in life and even made careers out of them. Thank you for sharing your story!
Three weeks away from turning 30 and I so deeply understand the feeling of frustration over not living the life I want. I'm not sure what my thing is, but I love the idea that it can be anything I just decide to start whether it's something I've wanted to try for years or just found out about. It's just making the decision that's important.
Thanks for a great read :)
Thanks for the kind words.
I always find if I’m stuck on what to do, I ask myself what the younger version of myself would want to do now and use that as a compass.
Hope you find your thing! :)
Really really loved this! I’m in my late 20’s and surfing has been a dream for me, too. Unfortunately, I’m landlocked in Montana. What tips do you have for me?
Wow wow wow! I just celebrated my 30th in Costa Rica and caught waves for the first time. It is so addicting--that flow state of simply being on the water, and of course, the feeling of catching a wave. I think the world would be a much better place if we were all able to play outdoors and feel a part of nature in that play state. This resonated so much, thank you for sharing!
Lovely read! I always been drawn to surfing but perhaps this is the year I finally do it. Do you have any recommendations for beginner surf lessons? Portugal? Morocco?
That's inspiring! It isn't easy to learn something as an adult. Kudos for you for not giving up! I can relate with your story. I also felt the sense of unease in my 20's and I wondered what I was doing. Now, a few years into my 30's I feel like I am prioritizing on things that I want to do.
Beautiful piece! Really enjoyed reading and that feeling of being stuck. Happy to see you found some purpose amongst the waves! 🌊
I loved loved loved reading this! Such a beautiful reflection, and I can relate - I have the same with trail running. Only discovered it when I turned 32, but wow, it has changed me for good (even though I also sometimes wonder what the heck I am doing when I have to run through the freezing cold :p). Thanks for sharing!
Aw, I'm stoked it resonated with you! Thanks for the kind words 🙏
Congrats for finding your thing! Trail running is badass!
can relate 100%